What it's like to attend Turkey's Quran schools for girls

Inspired by her own experiences, a photographer reveals the discipline and the delights of a girlhood framed by the Muslim religious text.

Picture of young girl in black covers holding an orange while other pair of hands is on her chest.
At a Quran school in Istanbul, Turkey, a student named Zeynep and a classmate spend a study break performing antics under an orange tree. The photographer attended a similar school when she was young.
Story and photographs bySabiha Çimen
July 5, 2022
5 min read

At the age of 12, my twin sister and I embarked on a special type of education. For three years we attended a Quran school for girls in our home city of Istanbul. The experience stayed with me, and when I later became a photographer, I knew I had to return to it, with my Hasselblad camera in hand.

Picture of two girls dressed in all black taking selfie on red boat, while another girl in black watching them from rocky bank
A student snaps a selfie during a school outing to Ada Park in Bayrampasa, a district of Istanbul. Later she gathered her many photos from the day and shared them through an Instagram story.

For this project I visited my school and others across Turkey, where girls ages eight to 19 spend up to four years trying to memorize all 604 pages of the Muslim religious text. Some of these boarding schools provide secular classes, but the main focus is on learning the Quran, a traditional practice dating to the time of Muhammad. I wanted to document it—not only the discipline required to become a hafiz (one who remembers) but also the way girls retain the essential nature of youngsters. I hoped to create a nuanced look at a rarely seen and often misunderstood segment of society.

Picture of girl in black dress and pink head scarf and another with gorilla mask on.
In an Istanbul schoolyard Aslıhan and a friend have fun with a gorilla mask. Afterward the two ran through the hallways to prank their schoolmates.
Picture of girl in black dress and white head cover sitting at the table in dining room with all chairs leg up on pink table clothes.
As one of her chores, a student sorts lemons in the dining room of a school in Kars, a city in northeastern Turkey.
Picture of
At the same school, a girl named Reyyan gathers tomatoes for the cooks. Students help with such tasks during their menstrual periods, when, in the view of some Muslims, they shouldn’t touch the Quran.

Through vignettes of daily life—the daydreams and the quiet rebellions, the trivial moments and the melodramas—an emotional narrative started to emerge. It’s a story about these young women as well as the memories I carry. All of us discovered a hidden power to act out with small forms of resistance, to find our individuality. 

As a new student at a Quran school in Rize, on Turkey’s Black Sea coast, Elif covers her hair for the first time.


Picture of four girls in pink smoke
At a school picnic in Istanbul, students distance themselves from their teachers to experiment with a pink smoke flare.
Picture of young girls on roller-skates, one standing over another one on the floor with her face down.
Two of the youngest students at an Istanbul school, both age nine, learn to roller-skate, a process similar to memorizing the Quran: making mistakes and trying again.

The end result, a book titled Hafiz, is my nostalgia-tinged tribute to those girls and to my own youthful journey with my sister. This project also has been a journey—and through it I feel that my photographic subjects have become my sisters too.

Picture of three woman in all black shown from behind holding hands and looking up at airplane in sky.
At a Quran school picnic in Istanbul, a plane soars over a group of students who, with headscarves billowing in the wind, look as though they are ready to fly.
This story appears in the August 2022 issue of National Geographic magazine.

LIMITED TIME OFFER

Discover More, Spend Less
With new subscriber-exclusive stories published daily and complete archive access, your opportunities to explore are endless!