Where to find the best tacos, coffee and Korean food in L.A.

Los Angeles is one of the most exciting places in the world to eat right now. Its Mediterranean climate allows farmers to grow a wide-ranging bounty year-round, encouraging chefs and restaurateurs born in LA to stay put while attracting fresh culinary talent from across the US and beyond.

Asian cuisines loom large. The US’s largest population of Koreans is found in Los Angeles County and nearby Orange County, and their culinary hub is LA’s city centre. In Koreatown, Jinsol Gukbap restaurant sells pork soup that simmers for 24 hours before it’s served, while Surawon Tofu House is the place for silken bean curd made from scratch. And Kobawoo House is where you can enjoy a traditional bossam — pork, boiled in spices wrapped in lettuce or cabbage.

North of Koreatown, in East Hollywood is America’s only officially designated Thai Town, serving distinctive regional dishes. Try jade noodles with barbecue pork, duck and crab at Sapp Coffee Shop, morning glory (water spinach) with crispy pork at Ruen Pair, and grilled sai ua (pork sausage) at Amphai Northern Thai Food Club.

The Greater Los Angeles area excels when it comes to food from around the Middle East. Head to the Armenian enclave of Glendale, where Mini Kabob serves up succulent ground beef lule skewers, or the Persian area of Westwood, known as Tehrangeles, where Shamshiri Grill is known for its tahdig (basmati rice infused with saffron and turmeric with a golden, butter crust) and bamieh (tomato and garlic stew). For a modern spin, Dune serves a street food-inspired menu including some of LA’s best falafel.

Excellent soul food, traditionally the preserve of South Los Angeles, is now available across the city. Joyce, a Downtown restaurant led by chef and co-owner, North Carolina native Sammy Monsour, sells Southern staples, including Louisiana crawfish (crayfish) hushpuppies, cornmeal-crusted Nashville catfish and a standout Jamaican jerk duck confit. Over at Alta Adams, a modern soul food restaurant in West Adams, two-time James Beard Award nominee Keith Corbin offers the likes of black-eyed pea fritters, blackened salmon over smashed and fried potatoes with curry sauce, and his signature miso- and soy-braised oxtails.

Surrounded by Californian wine country, LA has seen a crop of new bars offering food pairing in a casual setting. Esters Wine Shop & Bar, in Santa Monica, has a generous selection by the glass, while over in Echo Park, Bar Bandini serves natural wines on tap and hosts pop-up food vendors. Elsewhere, The Ruby Fruit is an inclusive, LGBTQ+ spot in Silver Lake, with an exemplary natural wine list and plenty of plant-based, gluten-free bar food.

LA is a place that rewards forward-planning. Focus your trip on one or two areas, and the notorious sprawl will be more manageable. And — despite this being a city of drivers — you won’t even need to get behind the wheel.

A day in Culver City

Founded in 1917 by real estate agent Harry Culver, Culver City began life as the home of several early film studios, and later gained a reputation as an aircraft-manufacturing hub. Remnants of these industries remain, although these days it’s the dining scene that attracts most visitors.

Begin at Destroyer, acclaimed chef Jordan Kahn’s breakfast spot with an imaginative rotating menu, including Koshihikari rice porridge and avocado confit, along with signature coffees, teas and pastries. Don’t miss the smoked lapsang milk tea and vegan chocolate chip cookies.

Nearby Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook has panoramic views of the Los Angeles Basin, Pacific Ocean and surrounding mountains. Spot native wildflowers and birds while climbing the Culver City Stairs before descending via the switchback trail.

From here, it’s a short walk to the Museum of Jurassic Technology (book ahead), a collection of artistic, scientific and ethnographic curios set in what looks like a small shopfront on Venice Boulevard.

A few steps away, The Brothers Sushi has a fantastic Japanese menu that spans a wide price range and includes everything from soy sauce-glazed chicken to sushi omakase.

After lunch, enjoy a stroll through downtown Culver City, calling into the Wende Museum, which displays Cold War-era art and artefacts. Or book ahead for a tour of Sony Pictures Studios, responsible for cinematic classics such as The Wizard of Oz and Men in Black.

Head towards Washington Boulevard and Motor Avenue to end the day at Mayura, a family-run restaurant that’s been serving fantastic Keralan cuisine for over 20 years, set within a simple spot in the corner of a strip mall. Start with the dosas then continue with a delicious fish curry or dum biryani with chicken.

A day in the art district

Once planted with grapevines, then orange groves, which were razed to make way for factories, Downtown LA’s Arts District became known as such in the late 1960s when industrial spaces were converted into studios and low-rent living spaces by artists. Later, this gave birth to a burgeoning art and punk rock scene, and today it’s home to some of the city’s hottest dining and drinking establishments.

Located in the Row DTLA restaurant/retail area, Go Get Em Tiger has several branches across LA, and some of the best coffee in the city. The breakfast burrito is the thing to order, although there are delicious pastries, too. Alternatively, Smorgasburg Los Angeles is a gathering of up-and-coming artisan vendors who, every other Sunday, sell everything from vegan tacos to ribs, dim sum and seafood ceviche. There’s also a lively beer garden.

Next, head along 7th Street to the Institute of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles, a 4,000sq-metre space boldly curated with works by emerging artists. Nearby, Ditroit sells exemplary tacos courtesy of chef extraordinaire Enrique Olvera (best known for Mexico City’s Pujol and New York’s Cosme). The suadero beef taco and fish flauta rolled taco are the hits, but there’s also a daily changing choice of tamale. Afterwards, snake your way back to 7th Street, but not before picking up another coffee and an espresso brownie for dessert at Bread Lounge.

Walk it all off on the way to Dover Street Market, where you’ll find a selection of avant garde and fashion-forward clothing. Or you can call ahead to book a tour of Peter Lai Asian Village. Lai has collected original Japanese and Chinese garments and other rare artefacts from his time as a designer and costumer, which he displays in this unique home-museum.

For dinner, try the tasting menu at Baroo, a few minutes’ walk away on East Second Street. Chef Kwang Uh cooks modern Korean dishes influenced by his studies in Korea with Buddhist nun and chef Jeong Kwan, while beverage director Jason Lee curates a list of craft Korean soju, makgeolli and yakju, as well as non-alcoholic pairings.

Asian-American cuisine

LA’s crop of notable second-generation Asian-American chefs has grown up in Los Angeles, setting off on their own culinary paths and going on to garner not just local but international acclaim from the likes of Michelin. Camphor offers exquisitely executed French bistro food, lightly infused with the South and Southeast Asian spices favoured by its two Alain Ducasse-trained chefs, Lijo George and Max Boonthanakit.

In the nearby Row DTLA area, Kato is a multi-course experience shaped by Taiwanese-American chef Jon Yao’s upbringing in the San Gabriel Valley, east of the city. The menu changes as he disassembles and reconstructs dishes from his childhood, such as cruller (a deep-fried pastry) with Iberico ham, sea urchin roe and caviar. Also in the Row DTLA is Hayato, where chef-owner Brandon Hayato Go — who has many years in top Japanese kitchens under his belt — showcases ingredients flown in from Japan such as sakura shrimp, blackthroat seaperch and channel rockfish. Elsewhere, at N/Naka, Niki Nakayama follows the principles of kaiseki (traditional, multi-course Japanese meals), using seasonal, locally sourced ingredients such as tomatillos and California spiny lobsters.

Where to eat Mexican street food in LA

1. Mariscos Jalisco
Located between the Los Angeles River and Interstate 5, this iconic taco truck serves up crunchy fried shrimp tacos and fiery seafood tostadas with spicy red octopus and shrimp aguachile (a ceviche-like dish). All are topped with sliced avocado, just in case you’d forgotten you’re in California.

2. Teddy’s Red Tacos
Known for his birria de res (stewed beef) served in a taco, mulitas (tortilla sandwiches), quesadillas and liberal use of consommé, chef and owner Teddy Vazquez specialises in food with a burst of flavour and a satisfying crunch. The original location was in South LA, but Teddy now has branches city-wide.

3. Poncho’s Tlayudas
Only available Friday evenings, these tlayudas (a type of Mexican pizza) are typically topped with lard, beans, cheese, cabbage and chorizo, then folded and grilled over charcoal, with sides of outstanding homemade moronga — blood sausage — or grilled steak.

The best coffee shops in LA

1. Be Bright Coffee
Owned by Frank La, winner of the 2024 US Barista Championships, this Melrose Avenue cafe (above) serves signature drinks blending unexpected flavours such as ube (purple yam) and baklava. Beans are categorised according to taste (‘dark and bold’, ‘bright and lively’, etc.), making choices easy, including a range of whole and ground bagged coffees.

2. Kumquat Coffee
At various locations across the city, coffee purveyors Scott Sohn and AJ Kim offer an impressive array of single origin and blends from all over the world, plus a selection of loose-leaf teas. Try the Green Plum Shaken, made with pu’er fermented tea and plum extract.

3. Bloom & Plume Coffee
With its distinctive bright-purple facade, this Filipinotown shop sells coffee from Black-owned roasters such as North Carolina’s Black & White Coffee Roasters. Speciality drinks include matcha and butterfly pea tea with blueberry puree and blue rose milk, and a nitro passion fruit tea blended with calendula and rose flowers.

Historic markets in LA

1. The Original Farmers Market
Grab a slice at Friends & Family Pizza, a recent addition to this market, in operation since 1934. There’s also chicken pot pie from Du-Par’s or old-fashioned ice cream from Bennett’s.

2. Santa Monica Farmers Market
This Wednesday market — a key source of contestants for US TV series Top Chef — offers the riches of Southern California’s farms, as well as great empanadas and crepes.

3. Hollywood Farmers’ Market
This Sunday spot sells the likes of strawberries from Harry’s Berries and avocados from Ace Ranch. Try spanakopita (Greek spinach pie) from Calamaki and blue corn tamales with roasted green chilli from Tamales Treats & More.