How to spend the perfect day in Philadelphia's Fishtown

Philadelphia’s riverside neighbourhood of Fishtown has seen a resurgence over the past decade as its inventive restaurants, dive bars and quirky stores draw visitors from near and far. The former fishing village, which morphed into an industrial powerhouse on the Delaware River, remains a blend of narrow streets of tall townhouses and repurposed warehouses, and retains its sense of community and tradition amid its modern developments.

Where to eat

Many people come to Fishtown solely for the restaurants, and it’s easy to see why — former warehouses clustered around Frankford Avenue have been converted into chic spaces serving creative global menus. Lunchtimes are best spent at Suraya, a contemporary Lebanese market, cafe and restaurant with a garden; the cuisine is refined, colourful and as Instagrammable as the space it’s served in — all patterned tiles, pendant lights and soft fabrics. For dinner, you could try casual Picnic for happy-hour oysters and rotisserie meats, but the hottest ticket in Fishtown is a table at Bastia. This restaurant from Delaware-born chef Tyler Akin specialises in seasonal menus celebrating Mediterranean flavours balanced with Pennsylvania’s rich produce. As an ode to the neighbourhood, try seafood dishes such as the sensational whole orata fish with sorrel pesto and tapenade.

Where to drink

Traditional pubs, dive bars, breweries and cocktail dens can all be found on a walk around Fishtown’s narrow streets. You could start the evening by dropping into Mural City Cellars, an urban winery with an emphasis on community, producing wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Vidal Blanc and Chambourcin with grapes sourced from Pennsylvanian growers. It offers wine tastings and sells by the bottle, but there’s also a bar within the converted garage it’s housed in. Nearby, Philadelphia Brewing Co and Evil Genius Beer Company carry on the city’s long tradition and heritage of brewing. Both have taproom bars; specialities include Pennsylvania Pale Ale and Black Cat Lager at the former, and Adulting Guava IPA at the latter. Then round the night out at Johnny Brenda’s — allegedly where the Fishtown scene kicked off in 2003 — for late-night pool, craft beers and indie bands.

Best places for shopping

Thrift stores, book shops and dedicated specialist outlets are what Fishtown excels at. Thunderbird Salvage, which opened in an old church on Frankford Avenue in 2017, is about as unique as they come, selling an eclectic range of vintage clothes, clocks, air-con units, speakers, mirrors, knick-knacks and everything in between. Book shops such as Ulises, The Head & the Hand and Lot 49 host readings, workshops and shows, while selling rare, second-hand and new tomes. Try Philadelphia Record Exchange for everything from folk, soul, disco and funk to gospel, R&B and rock — it’s been a mainstay in the city since 1985.        

Where to stay

A rather handsome red-brick building on a residential street in Fishtown, Anna & Bel is Philadelphia’s newest crash pad. It’s housed in a former women’s asylum built in 1769, with period features throughout its 50 rooms as well as a bar, restaurant and outdoor pool. Carefully restored and designed, the property is a luxurious retreat from the city and almost feels like a private home, such is the level of comfort and welcome on offer. From $220 (£171).