An insider’s guide to eating in Downtown LA

Downtown Los Angeles is bursting with flavour, thanks to the sublime combination of sun-ripened Californian produce, American innovation and global influence from a colourful array of communities. You’ll find authentic Mexican eats alongside traditional Korean dishes; classic Italian plates next to American diner fare — and even examples of all of them fused together. There’s so much to savour, it can be hard to know where to start. These five crucial stop-offs are the perfect intro to DTLA’s many edible highlights.

1. Cielito Lindo

LA’s heritage is solidly Latin — in fact, before the city was incorporated into America in 1850, it was part of Mexico. And from the jalapeños that streetside vendors lace across hot dogs to the huevos rancheros gracing chic brunch menus, the metropolis still has Mexican character inbuilt into its culinary DNA. For a taste at the source, head to Olvera Street — a historic row in the original city settlement near Downtown — where nostalgic restaurants serve up everything from tamales to burritos and hand-smashed guacamole. A tiny stall at the far end of the street, Cielito Lindo doesn’t look like much but since 1934 it’s been turning out thrifty fried taquitos smothered in avocado sauce. You’ll probably have to queue, but it’s worth the wait. 

2. Ristorante Per L’Ora

It’s all the over-the-top, old-world opulence of historic Italy, but right in the heart of DTLA. Recently opened at Hotel Per La, Ristorante Per L’Ora is set in the 1922-built Giannini Building (former headquarters of the Bank of Italy) and it drips in Bel Paese-style glamour with soaring columns, ornate ceiling, fanning palms and swathes of polished marble. The menu hits on all the Italian high notes without being slavishly traditional — for example, the vongole bucatini is enhanced with sea urchin butter and caviar; pork meatballs are spiced with harissa marinara; fritto misto is finished with zingy yuzu ‘dust’. A fitting reminder that this is a city of many culinary identities and oft-merging flavours. 

3. Level 8

Japanese, Argentinian, Brazilian — can’t decide what you feel like eating? Make for Level 8, a brand-new food and entertainment complex occupying the entire eighth floor of Moxy DTLA’s glossy structure on Figueroa Street. Interconnecting, immersive dining and bar spaces with distinct atmospheres and menus thrum with life once the sun has set, as locals come to feast on everything from wagyu beef shabu-shabu (at Lucky Mizu) to ceviche and asado (at Qué Bárbaro). There’s entertainment too. Sink a tropical cocktail by the pool at alfresco Golden Hour as a fire dancer entrances, then catch a trapeze performance in library-like Mr. Wanderlust while polishing off a shrimp cocktail. With such non-stop energy, this is more than just dinner: it’s a proper night out. 

4. Baar Baar

For the vibe of a swanky cocktail bar — plus the kaleidoscopic flavours of India — make for Baar Baar, a moody spot near the Grammy Museum. Chef Sujan Sarkar turns out innovative small plates like dahl puri with tamarind and raspberry, or jackfruit cutlet with pomelo and green mango slaw. The talented bar team, meanwhile, takes their inspiration from Bollywood; sip a ‘slumdog millionaire’ with turmeric-infused gin, passion fruit, Chartreuse and tonic.

5. Kato

For Michelin-starred precision in the polished creative district of ROW DTLA — home to slick shops, offices and eateries – Kato hits the spot. Local chef Jonathan Yao puts his Taiwanese roots on show with a multi-course tasting menu served within cool minimalist surroundings of steel, concrete and light wood. The line up constantly evolves, with seasonality and experimentation at the forefront, but dishes might run the gamut from refreshing crudo to custard with caviar and decadent bao. A superb, non-alcoholic drinks pairing with dealcoholised wines and clever in-house creations elevates the experience if you don’t fancy vino. Meanwhile, a bar tasting menu is available at a vastly reduced price should you want to sample signature dishes without the full Michelin-sized hit to your wallet.