A beginner’s guide to sailing Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast

With an abundance of seemingly deserted coves and beaches, the Dalmatian Coast is home to a number of harbour towns studded with Venetian bell towers and dotted with plazas where flagstones have been smoothed by centuries of visitors. Discover a different bay or quay each day travelling by boat, sailing over Southern Croatia’s clear, glassy waters. Whether you’re looking to learn the ropes or have an expert skipper take the helm, here’s how to plan a Dalmatian Coast sailing experience.

When’s the best time to go?

The Dalmatian Coast buzzes with sailboats from April until early November, but the Adriatic Sea is at its smoothest in June, July and August. If you’re unencumbered by school holidays, then May and September can bring a delightful combination of warm, sunny weather, calm seas and — relative to mid-summer months — few other travellers.

How long should I go for?

Sailing is a relaxed way to travel and trip lengths can be flexible — it helps to take note of any destination highlights that pique your interest and plan around visiting these. A week allows you to settle into the rhythm of on-board life while sailing to out-of-the-way locations. In two weeks, you’ll truly begin to feel a sense of escapism and a deeper familiarity with sailing. To gain more confidence, you could also combine five days of sailing school with a week of putting your new knowledge into practice.

How calm are the waters?

In summer, anchorages such as Krknjasi Bay just off the east coast of Drvenik Veli island — also known as the ‘Blue Lagoon’ for the turquoise and azure shades of its waters — are often calm enough to give your boat that magical floating-on-air appearance. And at spots such as Prirovo Beach on Vis island, the still water often provides a crystal-clear view down to the seabed. There may be times when the wind whips up and your journey becomes bumpier, but that’s the best time to experience the thrill of sailing. Plus, the beauty of being on a boat is that you can sail to the nearest island’s sheltered side. That said, it’s useful to have over-the-counter motion sickness medication on hand just in case you need it. Consider, too, how different types of boats act on the water. Catamarans, for example, offer stability and a comfortable sailing experience, whereas monohull yachts heel over (lean to the side), but provide lots of hands-on sailing action.

Where should I start from?

Dubrovnik is a great starting point for sailing voyages. With a pretty, pedestrianised centre packed full of restaurants, bars and ancient buildings, the city also has an efficient public transport system, meaning you can reach the marina from the airport in just 30 minutes. Another convenient starting point is the appropriately named village of Marina, just a 25-minute drive from Split Airport. This small and serene village has plenty of excellent restaurants overlooking its harbour, Marina Agana, where you can sample some delicious Croatian cuisine before you set off.

Can you suggest an itinerary?

Visit lively harbours, remote beaches, ancient settlements and verdant pine forests as you sail to spectacular islands along the Dalmatian Coast, beginning and ending in Dubrovnik. Start with a 90-minute sail (weather dependent) from Dubrovnik to the naturally beautiful Island of Šipan. Enjoy a meal at one of the waterfront tavernas in the small village of Šipanska Luka, tucked beneath steep, forested hills between Šipan’s north and Jakljan Island.

A further two-hour sail away, Pelješac Peninsula’s pristine waters provide the perfect opportunity for snorkelling. Next, journey four hours to the fishing village of Polače on the northern coast of Mljet, Croatia’s greenest island. A sheltered harbour and one of Mljet’s oldest settlements, Polače is home to well-preserved remains of a Roman palace, Rimska Palača.

From there, another extended cruise will take you to the shores of remote Lastovo Island. With its network of quiet hiking trails, Lastovo feels a million nautical miles from bustling Dubrovnik. The next morning, take a jaunt across to the island of Korčula and its impressive, medieval walled city, Korčula Old Town. Then, make your way back towards Dubrovnik, with a detour at spectacular Saplunara Bay on Mljet’s eastern tip (no more than a six-hour sail from Korčula), where secluded sandy beaches are fringed by pine trees.

Which islands have the best ports?

You’ll find well-equipped and easily accessible ports on just about any island in the Dalmatian archipelago, but those closer to the mainland and with regular ferry connections, such as Hvar, tend to be busier. Meanwhile, ports on islands further out in the Adriatic Sea, such as Lastovo, are usually quieter. Mljet Island has a myriad of delightfully remote anchorages, while Vela Luka on Korčula Island is a typical Croatian marina that feels as though it’s in the town centre.

What should I pack?

In addition to your standard seaside essentials, such as a bathing suit and towel, be sure to pack sunglasses and water-resistant sunscreen. The sea breeze will usually keep bothersome bugs away from your boat, although insect repellent can be necessary in some places when going ashore. Take advantage of Croatia’s translucent waters by packing a waterproof camera to snap some underwater shots — remember to pack your snorkelling gear, too.

Do I need any qualifications to sail?

To skipper a boat, you need to have an International Certificate for Operators of Pleasure Craft (ICC) issued by the Royal Yachting Association (RYA), with a Day Skipper qualification or above, as well as a VHF radio licence. If you’re completely new to sailing and keen to learn the ropes, attending a sailing school is a good place to start. In Marina Agana, near Split, Sunsail's Agana Sailing School offers a variety of course options for a range of sailing abilities. Alternatively, enlist the help of a qualified skipper and sail as part of the crew — as a crew member, you don't need to have any formal qualifications. Your skipper will take the helm as you sail along your chosen route (known as ‘bareboat’ sailing) or you can follow a set sailing itinerary along with a group of other boats (flotilla sailing).