6 must-try dishes in Georgia, from lamb dumplings to cheese bread

To experience Georgia’s cuisine is to discover the myriad of rich cultures that have permeated the country’s borders throughout the centuries — with influences from Iran, Asia, Turkey and the Mediterranean. Each region is home to distinct flavours, and even classic dishes such as khinkali (soup dumplings) and khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread) vary from one part of the country to another. Yet it’s the shared values of “sharing, caring and socialising” that define the Georgian table, says Irakli Asatiani, who was brought up in the country's Imereti region and is now executive chef at the Tsinandali Estate, A Radisson Collection Hotel. Discover Georgian cuisine at its best by sampling six of the country's standout dishes, each with its own distinctive dining experience.

1. Pkhali from Imereti

Western Georgia’s region of Imereti is home to some of the country’s most creative cuisine. One of the most popular examples is Pkhali, a vegan-friendly dip-like appetiser made of minced greens or seasonal vegetables. An assemblage of different pkhali, mchadi (cornbread), cheese and other morsels, presented in a communal bowl, is a dining experience known as gobi. Tied to the word megobari (meaning friend), this serving style embodies the social nature of the country’s cuisine.

Where to try it: Gala, a traditional restaurant in the regional capital of Kutaisi, specialises in pkhali.

2. Chikhirtma from Kakheti

Chicken is the star of this homespun soup associated with Kakheti, in the eastern part of Georgia. This is an area with an unpretentious and meat-heavy cuisine that’s orientated around the quality of raw ingredients. And while travelling the Kakheti Wine Route, you may well find yourself reaching for a bowl — “Georgians love to drink, and chikhirtma is like our pharmacy when we have a hangover,” Irakli laughs. Anchored in a slow-simmered bouillon, the velvety texture is achieved with eggs, while the zesty brightness comes from wine vinegar.

Where to try it: Irakli adds mint to his chikhirtma at the Tsinandali Estate, A Radisson Collection Hotel, in the heart of the wine region.

3. Khachapuri from Adjara

Known for the Black Sea resort city of Batumi, Adjara, located in Georgia’s southwest, is a diverse corner of the country where the cuisine relies heavily on locally produced dairy. Adjara is the birthplace of Adjarian khachapuri, the poster child for Georgia’s national dish of ‘cheese bread’, which comes in dozens of regional varieties. The only khachapuri that looks different is adjaruli, made in Adjara. Legend has it that because Adjara sits on the coast, the bread is shaped like a boat. Accordingly, the yellow egg yolk might symbolise a shining sun, and the butter, a pontoon floating on the sea.

Where to try it: Laguna in Batumi serves a variety of wood-fired khachapuri, including a house special with smoked cheese.

4. Khinkali from Tushetii

Khinkali resembles xiaolongbao (a small Chinese steamed bun) and likely arrived in Georgia via Mongolia. These ‘city style’ dumplings are often filled with a 70-30% blend of beef and pork — but, in the remote highlands of Tusheti, the original recipe calls for lamb. According to Irakli, the most important component is the hot broth inside. To enjoy it properly, take a small bite of the bun, then drink the broth before devouring the dough and the meat. The golden rule is to eat with your hands.

Where to try it: Pictograma in Tbilisi serves authentic Khevsurian dumplings.

5. Kharcho from Samegrelo

Kharcho is a popular beef soup that can be made in different ways. However, most would agree this tomato-based dish calls for blue fenugreek, marigold and coriander seeds at a minimum. Many people like to add ajika, a piquant pepper-chilli-garlic paste that’s a staple in subtropical Samegrelo, but there are no written rules for how to make a dish like this. Megrelian veal kharcho, for instance, uses ground walnuts for a rich, curry-like gravy. This dish’s traditional companion is elarji, a soft ghomi (grain porridge) blended with cheese. ghomi on the boil” Irakli explains.

Where to try it: Ketevan Ninidze of Oda Wines in Martvili serves her kharcho with ghomi.

6. Shkmeruli from Racha

Unforgiving winters in the Caucasus Mountains call for hot, hearty dishes. Hailing from the village of Skhmeri in Racha, shkmeruli is a simple dish of roasted chicken, served in a punchy raw or lightly sauteed garlic sauce. Earthenware pans named ketsi are used for cooking this dish directly on the hearth. These traditional Georgian pans are made from the same clay used to create qvevri, the buxom amphora (a large earthenware vessel) used in Georgia’s 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition.

Where to try it: Family Hotel Gallery in Oni serves Rachan speciality food inside a traditional wooden house.