Cuban meal

Photo story: on the trail of Cuban cuisine in Miami

Home to the US’s largest Cuban community, this vibrant Florida city is the place to go for Cuban cuisine, cafe con leche and live music any night of the week.

Ropa vieja, braised beef with spices and vegetables, is Cuba’s national dish.
Photograph by James Jackman
Story and photographs byJames Jackman
February 4, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Pork rinds
 In Little Havana, Ball & Chain serves Cuban classics such as chicharrones — fried pork rinds — and ropa vieja: shredded beef marinated in a sauce of tomatoes, peppers and onions.
Photograph by James Jackman
Men playing instruments
The Ball & Chain Trio play at the restaurant throughout the week; Maraca-player Orestes isn’t hired by the restaurant, but he comes in every day to play, dance and pose for photos.
Photograph by James Jackman
Meal on a plate
Over in the Coconut Grove neighbourhood, Chug’s Diner dishes up duck croquetas with orange mustard, pickled onions and crackers. 
Photograph by James Jackman
Miami deco drive street
South Beach’s ‘Deco Drive’, meanwhile, offers a taste of the tropics with art deco architecture and coconut palms lining the street.
Photograph by James Jackman
Cuban sandwich
The Cuban sandwich is arguably the community’s most iconic dish. Believed by some to have originated in Florida, it usually features a filling of ham, roast pork, cheese, pickles and mustard. Cubatón sandwich shop’s version makes for the perfect snack before or after a trip to nearby South Beach, and you’ll often find customers eating theirs outside in their swimwear. 
Photograph by James Jackman
Soupy rice and chicken
 In the Wynwood neighbourhood, Enriqueta’s Sandwich Shop draws a crowd for lunch with its specials such as arroz con pollo a la chorrera — soupy rice and chicken — with sweet plantains.
Photograph by James Jackman
Woman in window
Lucy Pla takes orders from the ventanita (little window).
Photograph by James Jackman
Cafe
 Ventanitas are integral to Miami’s Cuban coffee culture, with an array of venues serving their brews from these hatches out onto the street. La Ventanita at Versailles restaurant is a Little Havana landmark, serving cafe con leche with as little or as much milk as you like.
Photograph by James Jackman
Men playing dominos
 Several blocks east on Calle Ocho, members of the Cuban community 
gather to socialise over games of dominos at the aptly named Domino Park. The game has been played here for decades, and is usually a members-only affair, though spectators are welcome. 
Photograph by James Jackman
Published in Issue 22 (winter 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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