A food guide to Prague

For decades, Czechs saw their cuisine in one light — hearty, simple food made to keep you full, with ingredients that could be bought (or grown) during trying times. Meals were made for big families gathered on Sundays — classics like cumin-roasted pork, wild rabbit or the creamy dill sauce, koprová omáčka, were never found in fine dining establishments. But now, you’ll see them plated on elegant crystal at the Michelin-starred La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, a restaurant that books out months in advance.

Prague’s best places to eat draw upon the many chefs, educated both here and abroad, who return to the city determined to rebrand their cuisine, combining traditional recipes and flavours with an emphasis on locally sourced produce and diverse techniques.

At Výčep, chef Jiří Hrachový and his team sit at the forefront of modern Czech gastronomy, putting their own spin on classic pub food. Thick sauces and flavour-packed broths beautifully underscore its fish, venison and rabbit dishes. Meanwhile, the revamped Štangl uses innovative ways to highlight select ingredients and let them shine, making stars of raw materials like foraged mushrooms, roasted duck and buckwheat. 

Then there’s the Ze Mě project, a farm-to-table pop-up that often includes game meat and foraged ingredients, such as blueberries, mushrooms and edible flowers. And the recently opened Šodó bistro puts emphasis on seasonal produce to elevate dishes like yeasted buns in vanilla sauce and fruit-filled dumplings. 

Despite an abundance of spots experimenting with regional cuisine in the capital, the city hasn’t lost its passion for casual, communal places to eat. The centrepiece of Prague’s food scene remains the traditional hospoda (pub) and pilsner. After all, beer is famously often cheaper than water here, and most days you’ll find locals gathered to grab a drink at Automat Matuška in Dejvice, Lokál U Bílé Kuželky with its tall glasses of Kozel beer, or at U Zlatého Tygra in the Old Town, where beer cheese dip is served alongside the brews. 

Tourists have long flocked to Prague for its storied history and atmospheric cobblestone streets, lined with rows of pastel-coloured buildings. Considered by many to be one of the Europe’s most beautiful cities, until recently the Czech capital had never attracted food-focused travellers. Now, however, the city is evolving into a destination for those seeking a rich blend of history alongside a vibrant, experimental food scene.

How to spend a day in Holešovice & Letná

Twenty years ago, Prague’s Holešovice neighbourhood was a suburb with not much going on. Today, you’ll find small boutiques, minimalist new restaurants and cafes serving speciality coffee. 

To the east, Holešovice Farmers’ Market remains a permanent fixture with fresh pastries and local produce. Start with breakfast at Café Letka, on the border of Holešovice and Letná, for seasonal dishes from across Europe; don’t skip the pastries or espresso, as they’re some of the best this side of the city. Prefer a quick bite? Try Format Coffee for coffee and cake. 

Wander over to the National Technical Museum, a tribute to Czech Republic’s little-known yet groundbreaking automotive, train and plane inventions over the last 100 years. Next door, the National Museum of Agriculture is a fun stop, with interactive exhibits on farming and gastronomy. 

Pause for a pint at Letná Beer Garden (cash only), for sweeping views of Prague and classic pilsner beer or speciality brews. Then lunch at Sandwich Rodeo, Tomáš Oujezdský’s newly opened upscale diner, which serves creative takes on classic American sandwiches, with local brews and homemade lemonades. Try the crispy fried chicken and chopped cheese.

Walk it off at the National Gallery Prague with works from Picasso and Monet, and Czech artists including art nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. Or stroll through Stromovka Royal Game Reserve, a former royal game park with ornamental ponds and hiking trails. 

The Eatery, a Prague food scene staple, has a menu of creative Czech dishes that use locally sourced ingredients, such as wild boar with rosehip sauce, paired with small-production wine from Bohemia, Moravia as well as wider Europe. Round off the day with a seat at the counter to see the team in action.

How to spend a day in Nové Město and Staré Město

With gothic, Renaissance and baroque architecture, Prague’s historic city centre draws tourists from near and far. Nové Město and Staré Město — New Town and Old Town — have traditionally offered visitors some of Prague’s least impressive cuisine.

Nowadays, though, a growing number of upscale restaurants and cosy cafes make it a destination that food-lovers should seek out. Start at EMA Espresso Bar, a hip, minimalist affair known for its killer coffee and simple baked goods. The real gem here is the koláče, a sweet pastry made by beloved local bakery Alf & Bet, which tastes like the sort of traditional home-bake a Czech grandma might make. 

Walking is the best way to experience central Prague. From Prašná brána (one of the city’s gates) head down the winding streets to Old Town Square. Wait to see the Twelve Apostles appear on the over 600-year-old astronomical clock. 

From here, cobblestone paths lead to the beautiful Charles Bridge. For the best upscale lunch spot, head to elegant Café Louvre, a 120-year-old staple once frequented by the likes of Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein. Its small menu offers traditional tasty dishes like goulash and pork shoulder. 

Alternatively, if you’ve had your fill of Czech food, visit QQ Asian Kitchen, where chefs Nyoman Purnata and Lee Chang blend family-style pan-Asian cuisine with inventive fine dining. Or, for a lighter meal, try Palo Verde Bistro, an innovative restaurant with plant-based dishes ranging from mushroom tortellini to crispy non-chicken burger.

Rent a paddleboat at Slovanka Boat Rentals to spend a couple of hours paddling along the Vltava River. Afterwards, follow Náplavka riverbank walkway, stopping at the renovated kobky — former waterside dungeons that now house bars, cafes and art exhibits. 

End the day at U Kalendů, just south of the Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunić-designed Dancing House. This modern Czech restaurant puts a fresh spin on traditional food. Expect fried carp, homemade pâté and flavourful beef tartare paired with soft homemade bread and local brews.

The best spots to try Svíčková

Don’t leave Prague without trying svíčková, the meaty sauce-covered heart and soul of Czech food, and arguably the country’s most beloved dish. Most Czechs have an opinion on what (and who) makes the best svíčková and, in almost all cases, this comprises tender roasted beef sirloin in a creamy vegetable sauce that’s a sweet-savoury blend of roasted carrot, parsley root, celery, onion and spices. Classic iterations are finished with a dollop of cranberry compote or cream.

1. Lokál Dlouhááá
A must-try version of svíčková can be found at the modern pub-like Lokál Dlouhááá in central Prague, where the menu focuses on traditional Czech meals done well. Its svíčková highlights the vegetables in the sauce (rather than swamps them in cream, as variations of this dish often do), with pull-apart tender beef.

2. Havelská Koruna
Havelská Koruna near the Old Town has a no-frills take on the classic. This self-service spot draws in both locals and visitors with its creamy sauce and generously plump dumplings. 

3. Kuchyň
Wander up to Prague Castle for one of the best restaurants in the city, Kuchyň. Chef Marek Janouch serves elevated svíčková with the fluffiest dumplings. As Kuchyň’s menu is seasonal, the dish is most often found in autumn or winter, and pairs well with the venue’s tank beer.