See how Kochi's spice trade legacy continues to shape this gateway to Kerala's backwaters

Gateway to the canals and lagoons of the Kerala backwaters and to the Arabian Sea, Kochi was for centuries a major hub for the spice trade. This legacy has left an indelible mark on its identity and continues to shape the multilayered city today.

A middle-aged Indian man in his office, joyfully looking at pieces of paper on his desk, with spice bags on the sides and old pictures on the wall behind him.
Kochi's inhabitants carry great pride in their spice-infused history.
Photograph by Francesco Lastrucci
Story and photographs byFrancesco Lastrucci
March 1, 2025
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Two Indian men driving by an ancient tree on a motorbike, illustrated house walls behind them.
Kochi’s location on the southwest coast of India made it an attractive port for merchants for centuries, and Romans, Arabs, Chinese and Europeans have all left their mark here. In the historic neighbourhood of Fort Kochi, for example, close to an ancient banyan tree, is India’s oldest church, St Francis, built in 1503 by Portuguese friars. The port city is also one of the gateways to the backwaters, a network of lakes, rivers and canals along Kerala’s coast.
A man photographed from below, cutting coconuts from a coconut palm tree.
On Kayal Island in Vembanad Lake near Kochi, residents use traditional farming and fishing methods, including tapping the sap from coconut trees to make toddy, a fermented liquor.
Close-up of a bag of dried, whole chillis.
A local woman, leaning against a house corner, laughing and clapping her hands with closed eyes.
The legacy of Kochi’s successive colonial powers is most notable in the neighbourhood of Fort Kochi, which is a fascinating blend of influences from the Portuguese (1503-1663), Dutch (1663-1773) and British (1841-1947). Each played a role in shaping the city’s architecture, culture and role in global trade.
A wide shot of a makeshift wooden and canopied pier at sunset, overlooking a lake with houses along the far shores.
One of the city’s most recognisable emblems dates back even earlier, however. Half a dozen or so Chinese fishing nets remain on the shoreline of Fort Kochi, just a few of the many that once characterised the area. Fishermen operate the 33ft-high nets manually according to the tides. It’s believed this style of fishing was introduced around the 14th century by merchants from the court of Emperor Kublai Khan.
A wide shot of a beach, a long traditionally painted wooden boat in the front, with a crowd of people enjoying the sunset.
Kochi’s waterfront remains a point of pride and an essential part of the city’s identity to this day. Locals come to Fort Kochi’s promenade to enjoy the intense colour palette of sunrise and sunset over the Arabian Sea.
A man passing time on his phone in front of a waterside ice cream food stall, the last stages of a bleeding beach sunset behind him.
Food stalls set up, selling everything from pickled fruit, ice cream and natural juices to gadgets, toys and the catch of the day.
Garlands of frilly marigold flowers hung in drapes.
The backwaters can be just as colourful, with garlands of marigolds hung over the sides of boats. Representing the sun and symbolising brightness and auspiciousness, marigolds are often used during celebrations and as offerings throughout India.
A close-up on a pot of cardamom pods.
Kerala’s backwaters run parallel to the Arabian Sea, stretching north and south of Kochi. They’re home to plantations growing a variety of spices such as cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon and turmeric. Fruits including bananas, coconuts and mangoes also thrive here. Life on the plantations is dictated by the rhythms of nature and the changing seasons.
A wide shot of a local man strolling past a serene lake with the sun hanging low in the sky.
Secluded Kakkathuruthu (Island of Crows) on Vembanad Lake is just 10 miles south of Kochi and perfectly sums up the slow-paced character of the region: the soft light at dawn, the calm waters and the gentle chirping of the birds create a peaceful backdrop to daily life.
Published in the March 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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