TRAVEL

A photo journey into the remote communities of eastern Bhutan

This less travelled corner of the small Himalayan nation reveals soaring mountains, imposing monastic fortresses, and diverse cultures.

A Buddhist kingdom lying in the Himalayas between China and India, Bhutan has some 700,000 residents, most of whom live in the cities of Thimphu and Paro in the west. The six dzongkhags (districts) farthest east are some of the least populated areas of the country, and it takes at least two days by car over winding roads to reach them.

Photograph by Matt Dutile

Story and photographs byMatt Dutile

March 21, 2024

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

rice dishes — This is a region of unique cultures and traditions and a great place to try local Bhutanese cuisine, such as ema datshi (a fiery combination of chillies and cheese) over rice.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

valley with winding river and stone distance markers — It’s home to swaying paddies and deep green valleys, like the one overlooking the Dangme Chhu River, which is lined by stone distance markers for drivers.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Bhutan house with monk in doorway — A particular highlight is the 16th-century naktsheng, or traditional manor house, in Dungkar village, which is now a cultural museum looked after by red-robed monks.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

bhutan village landscape — The semi-nomadic Brokpa people live in the high-altitude villages of Merak and Sakteng in the easternmost corner of Bhutan. Many still practise traditional herding, travelling with their yaks to grazing plains at altitudes as high as 4,500m during summer.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Bhutanese semi-nomadic family — Come autumn, they move down to shepherd camps where they continue to watch over their animals. Thick woollen jackets, made of yak or sheep wool, help protect Brokpa men from the elements when shepherding and have become part of their unique costume. Brokpa women wear colourful jackets, often intricately embroidered and decorated with precious metals and stones.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

man giving a drink to a cow — There are no hotels in the area, but families — like the Kezang Chodens in Merak, a village of stone-and-timber houses — often welcome guests to stay in their homes.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

wooden bridge over valley — From the East-West Highway bisecting Bhutan, a single-lane road snakes along the Kuri Chhu River past sub-tropical bamboo forests, fear-inducing suspension bridges and small villages where young boys play games using large metal darts.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Little chorten (temples) line clefts in crags along the road or sit behind mural-painted gates and are filled with prayer wheels as tokens to remember loved ones.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

crafter weaving on a loom — A day’s travel along the road lies Khoma, famous for its production of kishuthara, a type of patterned silk kira (the long skirt that forms part of the national dress worn by Bhutanese women). They’re crafted on looms in the weavers’ homes or in collective textile workshops around the village and are so intricate, they can take more than a year to make.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Bhutan monastery on mountain — A half-hour drive from Khoma, the imposing Lhuentse Dzong comes into view on a ridgeline above the surrounding landscape. These monastic fortresses are found across Bhutan, serving as religious, governmental and military hubs. Inside are administrative offices that help run the district, temples filled with monks, and courtyards where tshechu (religious festivals ) are held annually.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Bhutanese drums hung on a wall — The drums used in these festivals are often kept hanging in the buildings’ mural-filled rooms.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Bhutanese monks playing instruments — Monks from the dzongs are often engaged by local people to visit their homes, traversing a valley filled with troops of macaque monkeys to carry out rituals aimed at ensuring health and prosperity. The ceremonies often involve the monks playing horns, banging drums and performing chants.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

street vendor in Bhutan — The town of Trashigang serves as the gateway for travels around the east, each district moving outwards from it like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Vendors in small roadside stands hawk everything from fizzy drinks, water and crisps to sandals and Pokémon trading cards. The region’s only hotels, with warm showers and large beds, are found here, too. It’s a welcome respite from life on the road, but visiting this part of the country is at its most memorable when venturing beyond the town.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

gate and starry sky background — It’s then that travellers can have such unique experiences as staying with a local family, spending frosty evenings watching the Milky Way passing over the gates of a temple or simply admiring the homemade patterned jackets of Brokpa women in Sakteng.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

traditional Bhutanese womens jacket — Ultimately, it’s the people that make this part of the world such a distinct place to explore.
Photograph by Matt Dutile

Published in the April 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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