How to spend a day in Valletta, Malta's baroque, harbourside city

Built by the Knights of St John in the 16th century, Valletta retains much of its time-worn charm, with narrow streets leading between honey-coloured buildings, and glimpses of the Mediterranean never far from view. It’s a small place – just 0.3 square miles – so all of its attractions are within easy walking distance. Here’s how to make the most of it.

8am: Breakfast at Caffe Cordina

Opened in 1837, this elegant cafe in the heart of the city centre not only serves up traditional Maltese pastizzi (savoury pastries stuffed with ricotta or peas and beef) and round qassatat pies, often filled with peas, but also a sublime atmosphere. Expect marbled floors, gold-lined ceilings and elegant chandeliers to backdrop your coffee and cake consumption. If you’re chomping at the bit to get exploring, they also sell some treats to take away.

10am: Explore Casa Rocca Piccola

If you visit one museum in Valletta, make it this 16th-century palace — the family home of the ninth Marquis de Piro. A glorious timewarp showcasing artistic treasures both Maltese-made and imported, the series of treasure-cluttered rooms contain everything from a portable altar hidden in a bureau to possibly the last surviving set of medical instruments from the Knights of St John. There are underground tunnels used for shelter during Second World War bombings, too. Tours run every hour and last about 45 minutes.

11am: Water taxi to the Three Cities

Get a prime view of Valletta’s skyline and a nautical adventure at the same time by hopping aboard a dgħajsa (traditional water taxi) to the historic towns known as the Three Cities, just across the Grand Harbour. Trips departing from water level below the Upper Barrakka Gardens cost just a few euros per person and only take around 15 minutes each way. Alternatively, ask your skipper to give you a personalised boat tour of the harbour.

1pm: Lunch at Café Jubilee

Filled with quirky art pieces — including vintage posters and inverted milk jugs repurposed into pendant lights — this homely family-owned restaurant in the historic core of Valletta specialises in the cuisine of Malta’s neighbouring island, Gozo. Tuck into dishes such as sheep’s cheese ravioli with tomato and basil sauce, rabbit stew with orange, spices and red wine, and baked marrow stuffed with beef. Wash everything down with the local Cisk lager or Maltese craft beers such as Blue Lagoon Witbier.

3pm: Tour the Teatru Manoel

Opened in 1732 by António Manoel de Vilhena, a Grand Master of the Knights of St John, Teatru Manoel is a spectacular example of a surviving baroque theatre. Twice-daily tours, which run at 11am and 3pm on weekdays, cost €5 (£4) and will take you from the stalls up into the wooden boxes where the people-watching opportunities are often as thrilling as what’s shown on stage.

4pm: Valletta Design Cluster

Set on a quiet side street in a building that was once used as a slaughterhouse, the Valletta Design Cluster doesn’t look like much from the outside — but step into the lobby and take the lift to the top floor, and you’ll be welcomed by a verdant surprise. The leafy rooftop garden with seating, tables and a pond provides an elevated perspective of the surrounding city rooftops, and is the perfect outdoor place to sit and relax for an hour among trees, shrubs and fragrant lavender blooms.

5pm: Aperitifs at Kamy Cocktail Bar

Wander around Valletta’s historic centre in the waning light, then pop into this popular cocktail bar. Mixologist Iliyan Iliev combines creative flavours with artistic prowess; try the clarified negroni. Paintings and photographs line the walls and each cocktail comes topped with a recognisable (and drinkable) masterpiece floating on its surface — for example, Munch’s The Scream or Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus.

8pm: Dinner at The Harbour Club

On the south Valletta waterfront facing out to Fort St Angelo and the Three Cities, this elegant dining favourite in an 18th-century building provides impressive views over the Grand Harbour. The menu is inspired by the streets of Valletta, with dishes like Strait Street, starring local pork loin with celeriac and pork gratin, and Old Theatre Street, featuring crab tart and marie rose sauce. Rather unusually in meat-loving Malta, there’s also a seven-course vegan tasting menu.